I noticed significant damage and caterpillars on my boxwoods in early June, which led me to do some research. Not only do we need to be aware of the boxwood blight in this province, but now also the Boxwood caterpillar or, officially, the box tree moth. For a while it seemed to be limited to as far as Etobicoke, but now is spreading through York Region. I mentioned it to several neighbours who also have boxwood on their property, and indeed, it seems to be moving through the neighbourhood. Hort members, be aware!

Here is a photo I took of the caterpillar in my Box Wood.

I reported my sightings to Landscape Ontario so that others are aware of this current issue. I found some very useful information on their site as well. Their link is in the references below.

Key information is copied below with some of my comments: 

• Box Tree Moth can be a significant pest if left unmanaged. Spread the word about box tree moth to your local horticultural networking group and encourage others to monitor boxwood for this pest.
• Box tree moth can be easily controlled if it is sprayed at the right time. A product called BTK is recommended for treatment.  It is the same ingredient that was used for the spraying of the Gypsy Moth.  I have found this product at Canadian Tire. 
• There are THREE active stages for this moth throughout the season:  Continue to monitor boxwood plants for signs of active larval stages, especially during the periods of May 30 to June 15,  July 15 to Aug. 10,  and Sept. 1 to 15.

The Landscape Ontario site is an excellent and informative source of information  in my opinion, a MUST READ for anyone who suspects infection.  It is further helpful as it also distinguishes between other insects/infections that may be the culprit in our boxwoods. 

Reference: 
- Landscape Ontario website for the Box Tree Moth: https://landscapeontario.com/box-tree-moth-help

Article & Photo by Monica Ahrens, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

A Beginner’s Guide from Doreen Coyne

Invasive plants are generally not native to our area. Because of that they do not have natural predators that would help control their spread. Thus they can grow quickly using natural resources in the area to spread quickly. This allows them to outcompete native species. They are also adaptable and have the ability to transform entire ecosystems. And it's not just plants!

The City of Richmond Hill has been issuing ways to manage invasive species (plants, insects, etc.) throughout the city and has developed strategic approaches to manage their impact. Over the last 2 years, they’ve provided notices and even burlap wraps to help with such things as Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) and LDD moth (Lymantria dispar dispar), previously known as Gypsy Moth. Their website offers good advice to help you know what is invasive and what alternatives you might use instead.

For residents who are looking to manage an invasive species on their own property, they advise visiting this web site - Ontario Invasive Plant Council  (OIPC) - to get helpful resources such as guides to manage and control invasive plants.

More generally, they offer these three ways that you can help reduce the impact of invasive species:
· Plant native:   When gardening, choose native plants in your landscaping. There are native plant alternatives to many invasive plants that we might find “too pretty” Read the Grow Me Instead Guide which provides alternatives that are better suited to Richmond Hill’s growing conditions.· Know and report invasive species:  Become familiar with common invasive species in Richmond Hill and report them when you encounter them on the trail or in the water. · Stay on the trails:  When visiting Richmond Hill’s Parks, Trail and Natural Areas stay on the trails to reduce the spread or introduction of seeds in natural habitats. Make sure to clean your footwear and equipment before going from one natural area to another. This includes cleaning bikes, boats, fishing equipment, ATVs and other recreational equipment.

• Invasive Species: City of Richmond Hill’s website at this link
• Gardening Tip: Garlic Mustard. Oh oh.  See this link
• Watch the OHA’s Earth Day Speaker’ Presentation. Dr. Michael McTavish spoke on Jumping Worms on April 21, 2023 and permitted the OHA to record his talk so it could be shared with all of the Societies/Clubs in Ontario as these invasive worms outcompete other earthworms and their castings degrade soil quality, leaving it inhospitable to many native plant species and susceptible to increased erosion. Watch the video at this link: https://youtu.be/3JZIhklh0-0 

• OIPC Helps Take Action Against Invasive Plants. The Ontario Invasive Plant Council (OIPC) is an incorporated, non-profit, multi-agency organiza-tion founded in April 2007 by a group of individuals and organizational representatives who saw the need for a coordinated provincial response to the growing threat of invasive plants….  See page 6 in the May/June 2021 newsletter.  Use this link. 
• More on Jumping Worms!  The article in the May/June 2022 Issue of The Garden Post got the jump on these bugs and how to control them. Check it out at this link.

Grow them once and then continue to harvest them year after year with minimal effort. After the first year, they’ll start to grow all by themselves as the frost leaves the ground.

Here’s the last 7 rather common perennial vegetables.
1)      Watercress. If you love slightly peppery leaves, similar to that of arugula/rocket, then you are going to adore watercress from your own backyard. It isn’t the simplest-to-care-for plant, as it is also attractive to many pests such as snails, white flies and spider mites. Some of the best things in life take time and work. With the right set-up you can harvest vitamins A and C from watercress year-round. Not only that, watercress is rich in niacin, thiamine and iron, better than an ordinary leafy salad!  As a child, we went out to the nearby farm areas in mid spring and in the ditches with barely any water, we’d find wild watercress. We’d harvest it and had watercress salads for the next while.

2)      Perennial Kale.  This is also a good one to grow.  Great for eating in salads, sauteed as a green, or even crisped in the oven for kale chips. Kale can remain in the ground and be harvested late in the season with some folks still harvesting even after the first snowfall.  You can propagate these using side shoots of about 10 inches in length. Cut the side shoot at an angle just below a leaf node. Leaves are left at the top of your shoot but stripped at the bottom. Place your shoot in potting soil in a container and when grown until a bigger size, you can replant it outdoors. Varieties of kale that you might look for are Taunton Dean, Daubenton, and Sutherland.

3)      Horse Radish.  If you are looking to add some warmth to your winter meals, a little bit of grated horseradish goes a long way. The best way to get to that root, is to harvest it fresh, for as long as you can dig the soil. It is in the same Cruciferae family as broccoli, cabbages and brussels sprouts, yet it is hardier than all three combined.

4)      Babington’s Leeks – These are a perennial leek with a garlicky taste.  You can plant bulbets (small bulbs also called bulbils) putting 2 or 3 with potting soil about an inch deep in the soil in each container before spring and then plant the resulting bulbs in your garden.  Once they are a good size – maybe 6 to 8 inches tall, then plant them in rows outside about 6” apart.  You should not harvest these in the first year to allow them to bulk out and take to the area.  But in the second spring, you can start to harvest their stems by cutting them off at ground level so that the bulb can continue to grow. In early summer they send out flower stocks which will have lots of tiny bulbets which can be allowed to fall to the ground to extend your patch of leeks.  Other perennial alliums to grow are various onions including the Welsh onion and the tree or Egyptian walking onion.

5)      OCA (aka New Zealand Yams).  This particular yam grows a good size like potatoes and is somehow not bothered by disease and pests that potatoes have to be protected from. Although, some might say it is a bit ugly. It can be boiled, baked in the same way as you’d do with potatoes. If thinly shaved when raw, the yam has a nice lemony taste which can be added to salads. Its leaves can be used for a nice lemony zest in salads as well. When planting you could start these indoors or outside.  Harvest them in autumn once the foliage starts to brown.  You can keep the yams indoors in a cool, dry place to enjoy throughout the winter.  I might add, my family kept their potatoes in the “cold room” of the house but buried in layers of soil in a giant metal tub.  Doing this, they’d last from harvest until late spring.  And some would be kept aside to plant the next year as well.

6)      Globe Artichoke – plant in area where there is sunshine and well drained soil. You can grow these from seed, or look for young plants (seedlings) in your local nursery.  They should be planted 3 feet apart as they grow quite large.  Keep the area free of weeds. Water frequently especially in the summer and in their first year while they are establishing themselves.  In the fall, you should add compost over the area and in our area, you may wish to cover them with “tomato plant wire” after adding straw over each plant for the winter.   In the summer your artichoke head will appear. It should be picked when it is about a golf ball in size and be sure not to leave it until it opens.  After the year’s harvest, you may get a second group of heads.  Leave some of these as they will flower and attract bees for pollination.

7)      Cardoon – It is similar to an artichoke and needs the same growing conditions.  However, on this plant, you are eating the stems which look like celery and can be used in similar ways. The flower head is not to be eaten. One might chop and cook the stems to add to soups or to be baked.

I hope you’ll consider growing some of these perennials to add more variety with less work to your homegrown vegetables!

Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society
Editor's Note: This will be the last Tip of the year. In 2023, I will publish all tips written by our members and submitted to me; but, I will not be able to write more than a handful myself. -- Doreen

Grow them once and then continue to harvest them year after year with minimal effort. After the first year, they’ll start to grow all by themselves as the frost leaves the ground.

Here’s 6 rather common perennial vegetables.

1. Asparagus - A favourite vegetable of many folks.  Plant it in a well drained area where the sun can shine on them all day. Buy the crowns – leafy but light foliage from a nursery – and plant that right away in rows that are 12 inches apart and about 8” deep.  To do that, make a trough in the row and splay them out in the trough (lay them out to be perpendicular to the stem, with the head coming straight up). Then backfill so the crown is above the ground making the roots 8” below ground. Add compost and mulch to help establish the roots for many years of growth.  Some suggest not cutting any asparagus that first year or two.  My parents made a small rectangular space for their asparagus – some 2 feet by 4 feet.  They did harvest a few the first year – perhaps as a reward for their efforts. And their plants grew for decades!
2. Garlic - Most grow garlic as an annual plant but it you keep it in the ground it can act as a perennial. Simply leave the bulbs in the soil for a couple of seasons and let them multiply on their own. You’ll end up with a bunch of small bulbs, not entire heads, but with loads of garlic scapes to use up.
3. Rhubarb – Grow it in the colder, damper parts of the garden and use it for desserts, pies, or even just to snack on a stem.  You cannot harvest rhubarb in the first year, you must first wait for it to establish roots. You will have to wait to see that this plant will get bigger and bigger as the seasons pass.  It is said that a single rhubarb plant can last 20 years, before needing to be replaced. In the meantime, enjoy all you can of the tart stalks, being careful to stay clear of the leaves which are poisonous, but not without their own uses in the garden.
4. Strawberries – these hearty plants grow runners from the main plant then self-root the runner and grow another. And each plant can grow multiple runners each year.  My one plant is now 30 of them and I have to control and pull out the runners each summer!
5. Raspberries – These grow new stalks from the ground but keep an eye on them as too many crowded stalks can decrease your harvest. Annually, you need to remove older dead stalks.  But no worries more will grow.
6. Chives.  You’ll be pleased to know that chives are very hardy. Such vigorous growers in fact, that they will need dividing every few years.

Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

Indoors or out, you need to be sure that your level of lighting maps to the kind of light and the amount of light that your plant requires. Without the right amount of light, the right soil type, and the correct amount of water, your plants will not thrive. 

As you begin to think about additions and changes for your garden for next year, lighting is an essential element to consider.  So, let’s look at lighting in this article.

Outdoor Plants: 
Most of us likely have areas of our yards and gardens that vary in the amount of sun they receive each day.  Some are in the sun the full summer day.  Others may have morning sun or perhaps afternoon sun.  And other areas may be in complete shade. If you have lots of trees or buildings near your home, you may find your garden in dappled sun from the trees or in the shade made by your home’s shadow, that of another building, or a fence.

We refer to these areas as shaded, semi-shaded, partial-sun, or full sun areas.  I have some of each and around my home and in my fully shaded areas, I’ve found that ferns, Hostas, Lily of the valley, Jacob’s ladder, and Solomon’s Seal do quite well. 

If you are searching for plants for a specific garden area, take note of its sun conditions. You may need to go outside and map the amount each specific garden receives throughout the summer to know the amount of light it gets per day and thus level of sun tolerance the plants you buy should have.

Then test that against what you see on websites. As an example, many list lots of plants as shade loving plants but in researching each one, many of them actually need at least partial-sun to survive. So that plant would not be for you if you need a full sun or full shade plant. Bottom line, be sure you know how much sun each area of your garden gets so you can select the right plants for it.

Perhaps you have an area that is full to partial sun for which you’d like to try out some ornamental grasses. I found a lot of them while looking for those that need shade for my shaded areas of the garden. There are also several bamboo plants that can thrive in Canada.

Some of the ones I came across are simply stunning. They make great borders and if planted in a design or flow of clusters present a wonderful sight of which you may never tire.

Below are my Ornamental Grass findings for sunny areas of your gardens. These tend to grow in various soil types and enjoy dryer soil. They can grow up to 3 feet tall.

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) 
Little Bluestem is a warm season clumping grass and is one of the defining grasses of the tallgrass prairie. It prefers dry to medium, well drained soils and can tolerate a wide range of soil types. It may not do well and the leaves will “flop over” if you plant it in too much shade or rich soils.

Little Bluestem is loved for it’s blue-green foliage and drought tolerance. It will stay green through the toughest droughts. In fall it takes on an attractive bronze hue and sports fluffy seed heads. This is a very attractive grass and evens even looks good in the winter.

The foliage of Little Bluestem feeds a variety of butterflies and its dried leaves are popular nesting materials for birds. Its seeds are also eaten by birds. Planting companions for Little Bluestem are numerous. In really dry soils, try pairing it with Butterfly Milkweed, Slender Blazing Star and Nodding Onion.

Junegrass (Koeleria macrantha)
June Grass is a cool season, clumping grass. It is usually found in dry, sandy areas but will adapt to most soils that are well-drained. It evens grows well in compacted soils, making it useful in ecological restoration.

Junegrass is valued in native plant gardens for it’s drought tolerance and blue-green foliage. It also blooms earlier than most other and produces attractive, fluffy seed heads by mid summer.  Birds will eat the seeds. Companion plants for Junegrass include Prairie Smoke, Nodding Onion, Wild Lupin or Butterfly Milkweed.

Sweetgrass (Anthoxanthum hirtum) 
Sweet grass is a fragrant (smells like vanilla), low-growing, cool season grass. It spread by rhizomes and can be aggressive in moist conditions. It’s typical habitat is sunny, wet areas but it grows just as well in average moisture and light shade.

Sweetgrass is sacred to the Indigenous people of North America who burn it in ceremonies. It is also used for weaving baskets.

It can be useful in your garden as a fast-spreading groundcover. In fall, it turns attractive shades of yellow. Companion plants for this are Golden Alexanders and Canada Anemone. It also pairs well with most wetland plants.

I hope you've enjoyed this series on Ornamental Grasses and have found one that might work well in your garden's shady, partially shaded, or sunny areas! 
Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

As you read last week, I have been looking for alternatives to flowers and bushes that will grow well in a shaded area.  I came up with Ornamental Grasses.  Last week’s Gardening Tip was on those that did well in fully shaded areas and a few that didn’t mind fully or partially shaded areas. My research uncovered many grasses that would be good in partially shaded areas but could not withstand full shade. They are the focus of this article.  The Red Hook Sedge may get a trial next year as a border along the fence under the trees on the southwest side of my pool.

1.   Hakonechloa All Gold.  PARTIAL SHADE 
As the name suggests, this plant is all gold in colour, bright yellow atop a green base. The stems are quite slender and the bright yellow foliage resembles a small bamboo. It spreads slowly and gently via rhizomes, perfect for containers or mixed borders and only grows to around 16 inches (40cm). This is a very hardy variety which prefers partial shade but does also grow in full sun in moist humus-rich soil. This variety does die back for the winter so mulching in autumn with a layer of compost is recommended. NOTE: This is not a full shade grass so for me it would only suit a few garden areas.

2.   Red hook sedge (Uncinia rubra). PARTIAL SHADE.  In this case the plants needs at least 4 hours of light per day in order to flower.
Known as the firedance, this compact sedge is a rich red, bronze colour and is absolutely stunning. If you are looking to add a splash of colour, this mound-shaped grass is it. The leaves have vertical accents of red along with the otherwise olive-green leaves so it creates unique clumps that juxtapose other verdant plants or grasses you grow with it. This grass needs to be planted in partial shade in a sheltered position in well-drained soil. It’s worth mentioning that it can be grown in full sun but would then need moist soil to thrive. If you have full shade, this one may not suite your needs. It grows to 10 to 12” tall and 12” to 14” wide.

3.   Tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa). PARTIAL SHADE.
Known as tufted hair grass, this plant produces hair-like blades of green and yellow grass that grow in tufts. It forms clumps and grows in low, dense groups. There are flowers that cover the foliage come summer which take on tones of purple, green, gold, and silver, forming a cloud of colour above the foliage. They attract birds well and are tolerant of air pollution so you can plant them along borders near a road without issue. 

From last week’s Gardening Tip, you’ll recall that the following Ornamental Grasses can be grown in partial  shade even though they tolerate full shade well:

• Hakonechloa macra Aureola  PARTIAL or FULL SHADE
• Snow Rush (Luzula nivea) PARTIAL or FULL SHADE
• Sedge (Carex Ice Dance). PARTIAL or FULL SHADE

Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

You may recall that back in the spring I was looking for some plants that I could use in shaded areas of my yard.  I had found some interesting ones over the years and a few extra from my research last winter and trials this spring and summer.  

Recently, I received a book that talked about ornamental grasses. And many of them do well in the shade.  Of course, it also talked about ones that loved full or partial sun.  But my interest is in finding plants that do well in the shaded areas of my gardens; and, these shade-loving ornamental grasses could be the boost to my gardens that I’ve been looking for. 

It seems that no matter which of these ornamental grasses I choose, they could fill an otherwise dull shady part of my garden with something stunning, simple, and easy to maintain. What’s more, I don’t have to settle on just one. If several of these are appealing, I can mix and match so that I can enjoy a multitude of colour and texture. I’ve seen photos where people have planted a variety in a large cluster or pattern along side other clusters of other varieties of grasses for a rather remarkable display!

Below are my Ornamental Grass findings! From all I’ve read, I’ve decided to try out the Black Mondo Grass, Hakonechloa macra, and Sedge in my fully shaded areas. They meet my fully shade requirement and they are all of different heights and colours so they should make an attractive display.

1. Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’) FULL SHADE  This ornamental grass really stands out given its rich black coloured leaves. In summer it has light pink flowers that seem to crawl up the stems. This is ideal for ground cover, filling a shady area with pink flowers that seem to pop out of nowhere. At maturity, it will span about 12 inches (30cm) in both height and width. 
   
   
2. Hakonechloa macra (Japanese forest grass) FULL SHADE  This adaptable ornamental grass loves shady areas. It produces loose, cascading foliage that arches and moves in the wind. The colours range from solid green to variegated, to bright gold. The plant grows between 8”to 20” (20-50cm) in both spread and height. It is easy to grow, requiring little in maintenance, and like all ornamental grasses has the resiliency to pests and diseases.  Grows well in exposed or sheltered areas and will thrive in most moist but well-drained soils.
   
   
3. Hakonechloa macra Aureola  PARTIAL or FULL SHADE  This golden variety is perfect for shade as they are bright and stand out even in the shade which is what one looks for in a grass to plant in a shady area of the garden.  This grass needs to grow in well-drained soil, with partial shade or full shade. It has a handsome greenish yellow foliage which becomes tinged with reddish in autumn before produces seed heads. . It should be planted in fertile well-drained soil in a sheltered or exposed position. It is a smaller type of grass only growing to 8” to 12” (20-30cm).
   
   
4. Snow Rush (Luzula nivea) PARTIAL or FULL SHADE  This grass, like many others, is resistant to pests and diseases and is very hardy. It is known for its snow-white blooms that grow on top of slender, rich green stems. The evergreen is clump-forming with medium blade widths. Small, it will reach between 12” to 16” (30-40cm) at its full maturity but the flower stems can reach some 36” (60cm) tall. It can be grown in sheltered or exposed sites and grows well in partial or full shade. It will grow in nearly all soils types from poor to fertile as long as its well-drained.
   
   
5. Sedge (Carex Ice Dance). PARTIAL or FULL SHADE   Sedge blooms between April and July with insignificant flowers so the foliage is what everybody is talking about. Like all ornamental grasses, it is best known for its colourful leaves. This grass grows best in partial shade or full shade and requires moist but well-drained soil. The thin blades of grass grow in rich, verdant shades and span upwards of 4 to 20” (10-50cm) with a spread of around the same. This grass grows well in very shady areas.

Next week we’ll look at Ornamental Grasses that require only partial shade.
Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

I picked my first zucchini today (early September), albeit small, simply to give the smaller ones a better chance to grow. It measured only 30 1/2 inches long.

They had a late start this year because they were not getting pollinated. Then I remembered my father telling me how to pollinate the Sicilian zucchini by hand, so I did. I remember my father telling me: “You have to get up early in the morning, pick a flower that doesn't have a little zucchina attached and put it on one that has a zucchina attached to the flower.” He said, “You have to make them kiss.”  I was a teenager when he showed me how to pollinate the zucchini. I'm so happy I remembered!

Last year, my zucchini were each about four feet in length. These are also called Mediterranean Zucchini but mine were originally from Sicily and thus we call them Sicilian Zucchini.

Editor Doreen’s note: I have zucchini envy and can only dream about all the wonderful zucchini dishes one could make with just one of those zucchini! These were grown right here in Richmond Hill in Paula’s backyard. Growing vegetables makes a beautiful garden in many ways including feeding your family! I also like that this reinforces the need to sometimes help nature when we see such things as pollination not occurring naturally.

Article and photos submitted by Paula Gianasi, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society.

Missing your warm afternoons in the garden?  How about growing an indoor plant from something you bought at the grocery store?  An indoor plant can be a source of food.  With this Gardening Tip, it could be both and indoor plant and a source of food.  And with patience once you eat the fruit, you can use it to grow another of that plant.

I’m speaking of the beautiful pineapple!  You can grow your own pineapple right here is Richmond Hill.  Here’s how to grow a pineapple from another one. In the picture, you can see the new pineapple growing amidst its parent’s spiky, yet leafy, crown.

1. Start with a complete pineapple that you bought to eat. Before using it, hold the body of the pineapple in one hand and the spiky leaf top near the base of the leaves with your other hand. You may want to wear gloves to do this. Gently twist the leafy crown (as if you were opening a jar) until it separates from the fruity base.
2. Now gently pull off the last inch or so of the spiky leaves so the bottom part of the stem is bare of leaves.
3. Place that base in water almost up to where the leaves remain.
4. Keep the container in direct sunlight. If it is warm outside, sit it on the porch or deck during the day and bring it in at night.
5. Change the water every other day or so and keep the container filled with the right level of water.

For more information about Scrap Gardening check out these sites:
· Gardening Knowhow: Planting pineapple tops
· Gardening Know How: Children’s Victory Garden: Ideas And Learning Activities For Kids
· Monica Mangin’s Instagram (DIY expert) Click here.

Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society